The Aura Unveiled...Unveiled

It has been way too long since I have last posted in here, I know.  I appologize.  Somehow my summer vacation has been much busier than my working year.  Anyhow, I have not completed the video tutorial for how to make boffer weapons according to our rules.  Feel free to check it out at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSspPJm3DKk

I have just started working on a tutorial on how to make arrows as well.  Hopefully it will not take as long to make as the last did.  I will also try to get the actual video posted on the website here.  Just haven't quite figured it out yet.

Hope everyone had as much fun as I did at the July event and I can't wait to see you all at the September event!

Proper weapon storage is usually the cause of most of the weapons we fail.  With weapon storage, there are only two major things to remember.

1) Don't lean it on the thrusting tip.

2) Don't leave it on once side, especially with something that isnt flat under it.

Follow these two simple guidlines and your weapon should stay fresh from event to event.  Here are some other pointers.

1) Avoid getting it wet.  Some times the water can ruin the duct tape or make the foam hard.

2) Avoid storing it in very dry areas.  I have seen some duct tape lose its stickieness due to it being too dry.

3) Hang your weapon.  Many of us have started attaching small leather loops off the bottom of our weapons.  This allows us to hang them upside down from J hooks.  This make it so that there are no compression points.  All you need to do is come home from the event and hang it up.

4) Don't leave your weapon in the car.  I know when you get home from an event, we usually just want to crash.  If you take the minute to pull your weapon out of the car and put it away, you may save the life of your weapon.  The heat of the inside of a car has even been used to bend PVC piping.  Imagine what it can do to the tape and foam.

5) Be careful not to lean on your staff.  I know the point of a staff is that its a walking stick that is also a weapon, but try not to put weight on the thrusting tip as your standing around.

Follow these simple guidlines, and your weapons should be good for several events.

Has anyone run into any other issues due to improper storage?

I'm in the process of making a video showing step by step of how to make a basic weapon.  As soon as I get that done, I'm going to do another on making arrows.  For now, here is a text version.

1.  Gather materials.  You will need a piece of 3/4 inch PVC, 3/8 inch closed cell foam, Open cell foam, Duct tape

2. Cut to length.  The pipe may be no longer than 57 inches

3. Cap the pipe.  Use some duct tape to cover the ends of the pipe.  This ensures that it does not poke through the thrusting tip.

4. Cut the Closed Cell.  Cut the appropriate length of closed cell foam.  It should go 1 inch past the end of the pipe.  If the closed cell foam does not have a precut slit, you will need to do that.

5. Secure the foam.  The foam must be attached to the pipe.  The way I suggest doing this is to make a roll of duct tape the lenght of the pipe.  Once that tape is on there, attach the foam.  Put the pipe through the slit in the foam.  Do not put the pipe at the base of the foam and force it up.  Again, the foam must go 1 inch past the end of the pipe.

6. Fill the gap.  Some times there is a gap between the edges of the slit once it is put on the pipe.  Cut closed cell foam and stuff the gap.

7. Tape it up.  Duct tape should be applied along the length of the weapon.  Do not wrap it around in a circular fashion.  Avoid creases.

8.  Fill the gap. Use some closed cell foam to fill the 1 inch gap at the top of the foam.  I usually put a small piece of duct tape at the end of that to make sure it doesnt fall out.

9. Make the thrusting tip.  Cut a 2 inch section of open cell foam.  Most of us prefer to cut the corners off this.  It makes it a bit more stream lined.  Remember that it must pass the eye socket rule.

10. Attach the thrusting tip.  Use two strips of duct tape to attach the tip to the blade.  Do not squish the tip while doing this.  Start one piece of tape on on side of the blade, up and over the thrusting tip and back down the other side.  Then do the same in the other direction with the other piece of tape.  The next step is the only time you may put tape around the blade.  Use one piece of duct tape and go around the ends of the duct tape to help secure the thrusting tip.  Do this gently.  It should not compress the foam.

11. Puncture the tip.  Use a small pin and poke some holes in the thrusting tip.  Don't over do it.  This will allow air to escape and go back in.  With out this, the squishy tip isn't very squishy.

12.  Finishing touches.  Beond this, your free to make improvements.  Remember, any colored markings on the blade is usually a indicator of something.  Don't do it with out approval.  I will do a blog soon of what blade markings mean.  Remember that the cross piece may not be metal.  I recommend using PVC or closed cell foam for the cross piece.  Though I have often used black duct tape for the hand grip, I recommend hockey grip tape.  Many variations exist though. 

Questions?

Thrown weapons have come to my attention as of late.  Last game I saw some variations that I had not seen before, so here are the official rules on them.

They may not have a core!  If I catch you throwing something with a core, you will most likely have your combat certification taken away.

They must have thrusting tips on ends! The ends must be open cell foam, like thrusting tips on cored weapons.

They must pass the eye socket rule!  There has been some confusion.  Basically the eye socket rule says that if I can fit a tip in my eye, it fails.  This applies to all weapons.

Max weight for thrown weapons is 2 lbs.  Thats a lot.  If your weapon is any where close to that, do not throw it.

The traditional throwing knife is rather easy to make.  Take a short tube of closed cell foam.  Put open cell thrusting tips on both sides.  That's it. 

I've recently seen a throwing weapon with a few split peas on the inside.  Under our current rules, this is illegal.  I'm will ing to look into it with some play testing.  Please do not be upset if I tell you no because you of it.  I want to play with them more before we make it okay.

Bean bags.  I do not believe I've ever seen official rules on them.  However, our bean bags are traditionally about 2 inches square of orange fabric filled loosely with split peas.  These should not be very heavy or very compact.  Basically, if there is a complaint about a been bag, One of uss will ask to see them.  If we deam them to heavy or hard, thats the end of the question.

Questions?

Hello Everyone! I hope you all had a great weekend.  I was glad to enjoy the weather on Sunday by getting outside and swinging some boffer weapons with friends.  Weather is supposed to be beautiful again this weekend, so I'm hoping to be able to get out for fight practice again.  

Today's topic is Foam.  There are two kinds of foam we used, 3/8 inch closed cell foam, and open cell foam.

The 3/8 inch closed cell foam is the pipe insulation that we use to pad the majority of our weapons.  When putting it on, remember not to "condom" it on.  This means do not simply put the foam on the top of the pipe and force it down.  The foam should be cut down the center (if a slit is not already present) and the placed around the foam.  The foam must be attached to the blade on the inside.  Most of us use rolled duct tape.  Some have used double sided duct tape, but I do not recommend this.  Also remember that the end of the pipe must be capped, again with duct tape.  There should be a gap of 1 to two inch gap, stuffed with open cell foam, between the end of the pipe and the open cell thrusting tip.  Be careful not to stretch the foam.

On the end of the pipe should be a thrusting tip, again made of open cell foam.  The best stuff I have found is Air  conditioner insulation.  It usually looks like this.  It is usually in the right sized strips.  You simply cut out a 2 inch cube.  Though it is not necessary, most of us cut the corners off to make it closer to the shape of the closed cell foam.  Remember not to compress the open cell foam when taping the thrusting tip on. 

Open cell foam can be found in other sources aside from air conditioner insulation.  (Who hasn't chopped up an old couch cushion?)  Usually this is what people use for axe, hammer and mace heads.  Please avoid using closed cell for these.  It can end up being very heavy.

Remember, we check weapons for safety at every event.  If your foam is found to be too hard, have soft spots, or not be secured to the pipe below it, we will fail it.  You then have a choice of repairing the weapon, or we will usually have a cast weapon or two you can borrow.

Questions?

This is the blog about weapon cores minus the intro and with a small addition.

Today's topic is core materials.  We have made changes to our rules on core materials a few years back.  We used to allow 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch pvc pipe.  This is no longer the case.  For most weapons 3/4 inch pvc pipe
is the only acceptable core.  There are few exceptions, but these must
come from me and El Presidente Chad.  Those of you who have been
playing for years with 1/2 inch pipe are still alowed to use it, but
please do not repair it.  Once the weapon dies, burry it.  I would like
to see it phase out very soon.

Things that are not allowed:  CPVC cores.  It's just not the same, not as safe. 

Boaring out the PVC.  Yea, its a clever way to make your weapon
lighter but still have the right pipe size, but I'll most likely be
able to tell when I pick it up and will probably fail all your weapons
if I catch it. 

Roding the core.  At AU we do allow counter weighting of the
weapons.  There are many ways to do this, and I will make that another
blog, but no weight can go any farther forward then the crosspiece. 
Unfortunately, the only way for me to really check this is to cut tape
and pull stuff out.  It will be a messy process, so lets not make it an
issue.

Putting screws through the core.  Again, a clever way to
undetectably add some forward weight.  It's not safe.  If done
incorrectly it will weaken the core and can cause other problems.  Don't do it.

Thrown weapons:  May not have a core.  There have been some interesting ideas for improved thrown weapons.  As of now, I have no reason to say no to them.  Check back for an up coming blog on Thrown weapons.

Hello and Welcome,

For those of you who don't know me, I go by Andy and can usually be summoned by saying the phrase "Bring it."

At AU, my job is to make sure that all things boffer are ready to go.  Mostly this means building and maintaining the cast weaponry.  Often this also means building random props that can be legally used to hit someone in game.  It is also my job to make sure all weapons are safe, so don't be offended or think it strange if I randomly walk up to you in game and ask to see your weapon.  Safety is my number one priority.

Aside from the weapons, I try my hand at writing.  Most of my stuff is made up on the spot.  I am usually the one making sure nights don't pass with out a good fight or twenty.  I'm usually seen doing something musical at every event.  I welcome any chance to swing a boffer sword (or two) at someone and have occasionally made weapons upon request for players.

Outside of gaming, I'm a pretty diverse individual.  Professionally, I teach music in a public high school.  Semi-professionally, I am a proud soldier.  I have many diverse interests; newest of all is training to run marathons and watching mixed martial arts. 

Introductions aside, here is what you can expect from this section:

1. At least one post a month.

2. Rules concerning weapons construction.

3. Tips and tricks for construction and maintenance

4. Discussions on new project ideas. 

5. Answers to questions that arise.  Feel free to ask me them.

Today's topic is core materials.  We have made changes to our rules on core materials a few years back.  We used to allow 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch pvc pipe.  This is no longer the case.  For most weapons 3/4 inch pvc pipe is the only acceptable core.  There are few exceptions, but these must come from me and El Presidente Chad.  Those of you who have been playing for years with 1/2 inch pipe are still alowed to use it, but please do not repair it.  Once the weapon dies, burry it.  I would like to see it phase out very soon.

The core of the weapon may not be any longer than 57 inches. If the weapon whips too much, it may be deemed unsafe.  This is not only because whipping weapons hurt... a lot... but also due to risk of breakage.

Things that are not allowed:  CPVC cores.  It's just not the same, not as safe. 

Graphite cores are only allowed with approval of El Presidente. 

Aluminum is not allowed.  I know the arguments, but we play tested it and deemed it unsafe. 

Boaring out the PVC.  Yea, its a clever way to make your weapon lighter but still have the right pipe size, but I'll most likely be able to tell when I pick it up and will probably fail all your weapons if I catch it. 

Multiple cores.  Above the cross piece of the weapon, you may only have one (1) piece of pipe.  You may not glue two together, use connector pieces, or elbows.  Below the cross piece you may use multiple pipes if you so desire. 

Roding the core.  At AU we do allow counter weighting of the weapons.  There are many ways to do this, and I will make that another blog, but no weight can go any farther forward then the crosspiece.  Unfortunately, the only way for me to really check this is to cut tape and pull stuff out.  It will be a messy process, so lets not make it an issue.

Putting screws through the core.  Again, a clever way to undetectably add some forward weight.  It's not safe.  If done incorrectly it will weaken the core and can cause other problems.  Don't do it.

These are all of the major infractions concerning the core that I can currently think of.  The current basic rules concering weapons construction can be found on the weapons board on this page.  Further questions can be left in the comments section at the bottom of this Blog.

-Andy